Sri Lanka is an Island, and therefore surrounded by sea, and
fish…so there’s always lots of fresh fish to eat. If you’re near the sea, there
will be a fish market somewhere near you where you can go and buy all kinds of
fresh fish (some of which I’ve never seen before) for not much money. The first
time we bought some fish at the market we bought a kilo of tuna for about 4
quid.
Or you can walk down the beach and (if you happen to be in a
touristy spot) you can choose the fish you want to eat outside the restaurant,
and how you would like it cooked. When we were in Galle Britta had Jumbo
prawns, which were the size of a small lobster (no exaggeration!)
Having rented a house for three months in Negombo, which is
one of the countries largest fishing ports, we were surrounded by fishermen,
their boats and their families. So it seemed logical for me to take some
pictures about this fishy business. As I mentioned in a previous post (about
tea) I needed to produce some work with a narrative, and also another piece of
work which dealt with an issue, for my MA studies. As with tea, the fishing
industry provided me with both these possibilities. Reasonably easy to do a narrative
here, but what is the issue? Well, as with tea, it comes down to money again.
Fishermen are mostly self-employed, and if they don’t catch anything, they
don’t earn anything. Which means they go hungry of have to pawn something until
the next catch.
A couple of days after we first arrived the government put
the price of fuel up. The fishermen (up and down the country) were not happy
about this and held a series of strikes and road blocks which, for a few days
at least, caused a fair degree of mayhem. Especially if you wanted to eat fish.
The fuel price more than doubled for diesel and Kerosene which meant that if
the fishermen didn’t catch much fish (which happens fairly often) then they end
up owing money rather than earning it.
|
Fishermen block the road with their boats and burning tyres. |
|
Fishermen refusing to let any traffic through their road block. |
Apart from the monetary issue, there is also an
environmental one, which is a case of over fishing. About one third of the
population lives in coastal regions, which means that around 65% of the nations
animal protein comes from fish. Management of stocks is being introduced with
deep see fishing of tuna, but other than this there is not a great deal of
regulation. Opinion on this varies according to who you talk to…the fishermen,
for instance, think there is no problem with fish stocks, just that there are
too many fishermen…
Other than financial and ecological, there is also a
political element involved. The government don’t seem to give the industry a
great deal of support, and don’t like it when the industry makes a fuss about
things. For example, the leader of one of the fishing unions, Mr Herman Kumara,
was threatened (by government heavies) and publically blamed for the national
orchestration of strikes and road blocks, to the extent that he had to leave
the country. Also, other government led initiatives, such as the establishment
of tourist resorts in the north like Kalpitya, have seen fishermen pushed off
their traditional beach side home grounds, and out of their fishing waters.
|
Fisherman in Negombo lagoon harbour. Many of the fishermen wear scarves on their head to keep their hats from blowing off. |
|
Fisherman at Trincomalee, fixing his net. |
|
Bigger fish are caught with pole and line. |
|
Pole and line fishermen out looking for big fish. |
|
Negombo Fish Market. |
|
Negombo Fish Market. |
|
Gutting and preparing fish to be dried. |
|
Boxing up dried fish. |
|
Filling up the bigger boats with diesel, these boats go out deep sea fishing for Tuna, shark etc. |
|
'Trawler' captain. The bigger boats are called trawlers, but they don't trawl in the same way as European trawlers. |
|
Wheel house of trawler, this is also sleeping quarters for a crew of six for up to 5 weeks at a time. |
|
Unloading the cargo of Tuna. |
|
Washing the cargo after it's been in the cargo for several weeks. |
|
Fish market for deep sea fish. |
|
Fisherman Nimal and family. Nimal is pleased his eldest son works at a posh hotel (Jetwing Sea) rather than become a fisherman. |
|
Fisherman Prasad and family. |
|
Fisherman Nisanta and family. |
I took lots of pictures of fishermen on the beach, in the
harbour, and also at home, but the best fun I had was going our fishing with
Nimal, and his mate Samath, at four in the morning. Heading off into the dark,
a high speed on a motor boat, not knowing how far out we were going, not being
able to ask, as language was limited, and not wearing any kind of life vest
(don’t be such a poof) was really exciting.
I found it really hard to focus in the dark, or work out
what setting to put my flash on, so the pictures from the first hour or so
weren’t very interesting, but once the dawn began to break it was really beautiful.
They drove to a seemingly random spot (it wasn’t random, they had an electronic
gadget to say where the currents, or fish, I’m not sure which, were) dumped the
net over the side, and then waited for an hour or so while the sun came up.
Sampath munched on some betel nut (more on this later) and a few other boats
came along side to say hello, and comment on the fact that they had seen my
camera flashing for miles off.
|
Nimal, on our way to the fishing ground. |
|
Nimal and Sampath put the net (about 200 ft long) in the water. |
|
Nimal and Sampath wait while the dawn breaks behind them. |
|
Getting up at 3.30 am suddenly seemed worth it for the sunrise. |
When it came time to haul the net in there didn’t seem to be
much in it…and there wasn’t. The kind of fish they were after were tiny little
ones, they called them coral fish, I’d call them sprats. We headed back to the
beach by about 7am, and spent the next hour or so emptying the net. There was a
total of about 20 or 30 kilos of fish. Nimal’s wife, violet met us on the beach
with a bottle of hot tea, and helped him vary the fish a couple of hundred
meters down the beach to the market, where they weighed it all up and sold it
in about 3 or 4 minutes. The money he
got didn’t even cover the diesel for the trip. I asked him how much it cost him
in fuel and he said about Rs 2000 (about £10) so I paid that for him as a way
of saying thank you for taking me out.
|
Pulling the net back in. |
|
As the net comes in again we are followed by birds. |
|
The coral fish are very small, and there doesn't seem to be many of them. |
|
Other fishing boats come along side for a natter, and discuss whether it's been a good catch or not...they don't seem to have caught much either. |
|
Emptying the coral fish out of the net. |
|
Sampath with his head scarf on. |
|
Nimal and his wife Violet put all the fish into a basket and head for the market, a couple of hundred yards up the beach. |
As with tea workers, the fishermen work long and hard hours,
often for little financial reward (though this isn’t always the case…if the
catch is good, the return is good) but have very little financial security;
they are wholly dependent on what they catch.